来自微信公众号shelly观潮授权转载，作者为观潮网创始人，独立时尚评论人   作为一个时尚产业中人士，近期我常常为自己的购买行为不够专业而感到有些羞愧。之前在香港买了个Marc by Marc Jacobs小包，后来又在伦敦比斯特购物村买了个Michael Kors拎包，这一不留神，一个成了绝版，一个成了“鸡肋”。   无论Michael Kors还是Marc by Marc Jacobs，基本都可界定为“轻奢”品牌。所谓：Affordable luxury at price you’ll love，重点是较好的品质与设计以及可负担得起的价格。这代表了目前消费形态中日益扩大的一个市场，即中级市场。这一趋势一方面与这些品牌全球化开店量大刺激销售业绩的增长有关，另一方面也与社会形态有关，正如《M型社会》中谈到的，全球化后，“中产阶层”将消失，许多人沦为中下阶层，而这些人又要求多一点“奢华感”。另外消费的升级理性以及这些产品的高性价比也是重要方面。   Michael Kors一度成就了“轻奢”高成长性的品牌神话。作为资本运作的一个成功典范，Michael Kors在90年代曾遭遇破产风波。直至2003年华裔大亨曹其峰及其合伙人Lawrence Stroll控股品牌，并誓言10年内将其打造成10亿美元级的世界品牌。之后品牌定位于轻奢路线，以主流媒体的高曝光度以及大投入并于2011年成功在纽约证交所IPO。Michael Kors 在经历高速扩张和连续增长后，14年第一季度财报即连续遭遇了两次财报日盘前大涨，盘后暴跌的跳水情况。而近期更是表现不佳，被分析师认为渗透率趋于饱和，普遍担忧其快速的扩张与过高的涨幅大大牺牲了品牌价值，并导致折扣过多，变为“cheap”，可能成为一个泡沫破裂的时尚零售股。事实上，在公司上市前后，曹其峰和Lawrence Stroll即陆续出售了部分股票，之后三年陆续减持，至去年9月，两位套现最后持有的 5.7%股权计 9亿多美元后，已全身而退。   当我在伦敦比斯特购物村的Michael Kors专卖店，看熙熙攘攘的人流中销售人员从仓库里不断提出一只只包装精美完整的包袋，放到付款处等待付款，我一度有些迷惑：每日这样大量的交易，究竟需要多少库存？还是这是专供outlet的产品？而我在买回这款包不久后就发现了一个问题：这款方形设计的包包由于设计与柔软皮质的缺陷，拎在手中极不平整且无法复原。所以我似乎更愿意相信我后一种判断。也许，Michael Kors的成功更象一个资本游戏。   而关于近期Marc Jacob将发生变革的流言，昨天终于得到官方确认：Marc by Marc Jacobs商标将被终止，系列商品将并入主线Marc Jacobs。消息指出，这个决策并不是要缩减产品系列，而是要统一所有产品调性，最终实现扩大供给。其实，关于品牌产品开发方面的动作至少在2013年十月就已经开始了，当时Jacobs正好离开LV，全身心投入到自己的品牌，接下去就是进行IPO操作。   近2、30年来，随着奢侈品市场大众化趋势，品牌通过推出副线在短期内获得了高增长，成长为全球性品牌。更多品牌深谙其道，副线成为品牌在“轻奢”市场的掘金之道。不过近年来，由于更多新锐设计师品牌崛起以及对主线产品的冲击，副线面临生存挑战。2011年，Dolce & Gabbana宣布关闭其副线D&G，因为它抢了主线风头。其他如Burberry，Michael Kors，也关闭了副线。而诸如Prada集团，则选择重新定位Miu Miu，以差异化运作。   对于Marc Jacob的母公司LVMH而言，总裁Bernard Arnault早就对Marc Jacob具有明确的规划“第一步是要在市场占有一席之地，然后完善市场计划，这要求零售的团队、投资和更多产品的投入。这些步骤已经在进行中。假以时日，也许两年到三年就能完成。”毫无疑问，Marc Jacob一定会进入资本游戏中。

How to Cook Steak in an Air Fryer? Cooking steak in an air fryer is not only easy but also yields deliciously juicy and perfectly seared results. This versatile kitchen gadget has revolutionized how we prepare meals, and steak is no exception. Whether you’re new to air frying or an experienced cook, this article will walk you through everything you need to know to cook steak in your air fryer. Why Use an Air Fryer for Steak? The air fryer uses rapid air circulation to cook food evenly, making it ideal for cooking steak. It produces a crisp, caramelized crust while keeping the inside tender and juicy. Plus, it’s faster and more energy-efficient than…

Application of Laser Plate Cutting Machine in Manufacturing Industry The laser plate cutting machine has revolutionized the manufacturing industry by offering precision, speed, and versatility unmatched by traditional cutting methods. As a cornerstone of modern fabrication, these machines enable manufacturers to meet the increasing demands for intricate designs and faster production rates. The ability of laser plate cutting machines to handle diverse materials, including metals, plastics, and composites, has made them indispensable in industries such as automotive, aerospace, and construction. What is a Laser Plate Cutting Machine? A laser plate cutting machine uses a high-powered laser beam to cut, engrave, or etch materials. The laser beam is focused to a fine…

If you're curious as to how all your favorite celebrities are getting ready for the 2019 Golden Globe Awards this evening, you're certainly not the only one. But while everyone loves to see their favorite performers win — not to mention all the amazing beauty looks on the red carpet — Allure editors tend to be most fascinated with the way their makeup, hair, outfits, and nails all come together. It's for this very reason that I've spent all afternoon perusing Instagram to see just how stars — particularly nominees like Sandra Oh, Kristen Bell, Lady Gaga, and Emma Stone — are prepping for the big night. From the snippets…

(HealthDay)—Don’t fall for products claiming to cure autism, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration warns. There’s no cure for the neurodevelopmental disorder, the agency said. Yet bogus “cures” and therapies abound—from toxin removal to raw camel milk. Some of these fraudulent treatments could be harmful, and should be avoided, the agency said Wednesday. Among them: chelation therapies, hyperbaric oxygen therapy and detoxifying clay baths. Autism spectrum disorder affects about 1 in 68 children in the United States, boys far more often than girls. “Autism varies widely in severity and symptoms. Existing autism therapies and interventions are designed to address specific symptoms and can bring about improvement,” FDA pediatrician Dr. Amy…

Our predecessor, Luoyang Bearing Research Institute, was the only first-class comprehensive research institute in China bearing industry. That is why ZYS accumulates and develops a large number of advanced competitive core technology. Possessing the first-class bearing design technology (design theory, design software, etc. ) and bearing testing technique (testing methods, testing means, etc. ), ZYS has set up a doctoral scientific research workstation, and a strong team full of domestic and foreign experts, whose main researches represent the technology developing direction of China bearing industry. As a leading role in multiple key disciplines, ZYS always provides comprehensive technology advisory services about bearing industry for national important decision-making departments. Our total…

  Tarpaulin fabric, also known as tarps or tarpaulin sheets, is a versatile and durable material widely used for various purposes. Its versatility lies in the fact that it can be manufactured in different types, each offering unique characteristics suited for specific applications. This article provides a comprehensive analysis of various types of tarpaulin fabric, highlighting their features and applications.   Polyethylene Tarpaulins:Polyethylene tarpaulins are one of the most commonly used types. They are made from high-density polyethylene (HDPE) material, which provides excellent waterproofing properties. These tarps are lightweight, easy to handle, and resistant to UV rays, mildew, and tear. Polyethylene tarps are extensively used in construction, agriculture, camping, and…